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Trip to India : Architectural Photography from Golconda, Hyderabad

  • naren
  • Nov 16, 2019
  • 3 min read

Updated: Jan 23, 2023

As promised, I am going to cover Golconda in this post and will cover the Qutb Shahi tombs in a subsequent post.


While going over the pictures of Charminar, Golconda and the Qutb Shahi tombs and doing my own research about these magnificent structures, I realized that these three landmarks from my home-town have also made the tentative list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. I personally think that while the city deserves this recognition, we should have had the vision much early on and protected these icons from years of neglect.


The highest point of the Golconda complex, the 'Baradari' can be seen from many a vantage point in and around Hyderabad, although, over the years, the view has been diminishing due to the construction activity across the city.


The Baradari at Golconda, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

While Charminar forms the ceremonial gateway to the city, Golconda, which is a fortified citadel that contains within its perimeters military structures, religious structures, residential structures, landscaped gardens, bazaars, etc., seems more like a city within itself rather than a fort. This is obvious not only when you are inside the complex but also when you are driving around the area to get to the Fort entrance.


Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

One of the most popular sites within the fort for most visitors is the legendary jail where Bhakta Ramadasu, a devotee of Lord Rama, who employed as a Revenue Tax Collector in the last Qutb Shahi ruler's dynasty, was imprisoned for a period of 12 years on charges of embezzlement.


The jail cell itself seemed more like a granary than a prison. Bhakta Ramadasu was known to have chiseled the songs he sung in praise of Lord Rama on to the prison walls, the traces of which one cannot find today. On the other hand, you do see images of several deities engraved on the walls which probably were done over the original masonry. Were these more recent additions that might have be done over what was originally there?


Ramadasu Jail, Golconda, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

I was lucky enough to visit the fort during the annual 'Bonalu' festival season this year. 'Bonalu' is an annual festival unique to the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad and kicks off at the Mahankali temple within the Golconda Fort complex.


While most of the fort, particularly the stairs leading to the temple were aptly decorated, one could also see reckless misuse in equal parts (leftovers from pilgrims cooking in the fort, Security barricades and other installations that were done without caring for the structures, to name a few).



Mahankali Temple, Golconda, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

From the Mahankali temple, you can head up to the 'Baradari' citadel and then wind down towards the Central Courtyard where the 'Sound and Light' shows are performed each day at dusk.


You can also get a view of the 'Baradari' through the ruins. The disregard to the structure to accommodate the equipment for the 'Sound and Light' show is obvious as you stroll around the Central Courtyard.


Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

I thoroughly enjoyed and was mesmerized by the variety that the Golconda Fort complex has to offer.


One minute you could be walking through low ceiling arches and the next minute you could be amongst the bazaars and the camel stables. Then there are wells, gates, pavilions, temples, mosques, cannons, to name a few. The place is worth making many visits if you intend to accord proper justice, which I certainly will try to.


Golconda Fort, Hyderabad, Telengana, India

I want to thank again @navinsigamany from The Hyderabad Walking Company for being a great guide and enduring with me through this visit.



 

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